Ann Sophia Stephens. The Ladies' Complete Guide to Crochet, Fancy Knitting, and Needlework. New York: Dick & Fitzgerald, [1854].

This book is an exact reprint of an anonymous English work called The Lady's Own Book. The publishers claimed it was written by the popular American novelist Ann Stephens in order to obtain U.S. copyright. When identical plates began to appear in Godey's Lady's Book, the magazine was suspected of piracy, but its editors replied that their plates were copied from the English original. In the absence of international copyright, both parties were acting within the law, but neither was entirely honest.

Plates 1-3

Plates 4-6

Six Lithographed Plates From: Ann Sophia Stephens. The Ladies' Complete Guide to Crochet, Fancy Knitting, and Needlework. New York: Dick & Fitzgerald, [1854].

The Ladies' Guide to Needlework: A Gift for the Industrious. Philadelphia: J.&J. L. Gihon, 1850.

The Ladies' Self Instructor in Millinery and Mantua Making, Embroidery and Appliqué, Canvas-work, Knitting, Netting and Crochet-work. Philadelphia: Leary & Getz, [1855].

To make old publications appeal to new audiences, printers often changed book titles and bindings, or added plates of illustrations. Five years after the publication of The Ladies' Guide to Needlework, the book reappeared as The Ladies' Self Instructor.

Patterns for Crochet Work, Original and Selected, By a Lady. Philadelphia: Hyman L. Lipman, [ca. 1846].

A Winter Gift for Ladies. Philadelphia: G.B. Zieber & Co., 1848.

The Ladies' Hand-book of Knitting, Netting, and Crochet. Edited by an American Lady. New York: J.S. Redfield, [1844].

Perfectly designed to slip into a pocket or workbasket, these popular soft covered pattern books combined convenience with a large variety of fashionable patterns.

Miss [Frances] Lambert. My Crochet Sampler. New York: D.M. Peyser, 1846.

This copy of My Crochet Sampler contains samples of crochet and knitting carefully sewn into the pages. These samples offer a rare view of the materials used for lace crochet and knitting.

Plain Crochet Purses. Modern reproductions made from DMC Pearl Cotton, with silk ribbon, by Nicole H. Scalessa and Kristin Balmer. Patterns from Miss Lambert's My Crochet Sampler, 1846.

Miss [Frances] Lambert. My Crochet Sampler. [New York ?: ca. 1846].

The many graphs included in My Crochet Sampler provides a wide variety of designs for purses, slippers, table covers, and shawls. These patterns show the influence of eighteenth-century needle-arts, such as embroidery, with their elaborate use of color. Most require more than four colors in multiple shades to complete the pattern.

Sun and Moon Purse. Modern reproduction made from DMC Pearl Cotton, with gold drapery cord, by Nicole H. Scalessa. Pattern from Miss Lambert's My Crochet Sampler, 1846.

Manuscript Pattern for Crochet Edging. [ca. 1850].

Linen Towel With Cotton Crochet Edging. Modern reproduction by Nicole H. Scalessa. Pattern from manuscript.

Miss [Frances] Lambert. The Hand-book of Needlework. New York: Wiley and Putnam, 1842.

The Hand-book of Needlework, the earliest American pattern book in the Library Company's collection, provides a detailed analysis of needlework history, materials, and implements. The book also includes a wide variety of illustrated patterns for knitting, crochet, netting, braiding, appliqué, and embroidery.

The English woman Frances Lambert was the most popular needlework writer in nineteenth century America. She also wrote The Ladies' Complete Guide to Needlework and Embroidery, My Crochet Sampler, My Knitting Book, Instructions for Making Miss Lambert's Registered Crochet Flowers, Practical Hints on Decorative Needlework, and Church Needlework With Practical Remarks on its Arrangement and Preparation, all of which were reprinted over and over again.

Brioche. Modern reproduction made from Mountain Colors and Rowan brand wool, by Nicole H. Scalessa. Pattern from Miss Lambert's Handbook of Needlework, 1842.

The brioche, named for the French pastry, is a decorative pillow intended for a parlor. Needlework books and periodicals between 1840 and 1875 frequently featured patterns for brioches.

S. Anne Frost. The Ladies' Guide to Needle Work, Embroidery, Etc. Being a Complete Guide to All Kinds of Ladies Fancy Work. New York: Henry T. Williams, 1877.

Alexander V. Hamilton. The Household Cyclopedia of Practical Receipts and Daily Wants. Springfield Massachusetts: W.J. Holland & Co., 1874.

In the 1870s, illustrations such as these provided a welcome change from the confusing textual instruction given earlier in the century that assumed a prior knowledge of stitches. As urban migration pulled families apart, women increasingly depended on pattern books for rudimentary instruction. Advances in engraving, such as the electrotype process, made illustrated books easier and cheaper to produce. As a result, crochet and knitting reached a pinnacle of popularity in the last quarter of the century.

Joseph P. Lyman. The Philosophy of Housekeeping. Hartford: Goodwin and Betts, 1867.

The cover of this instructional guide features a detailed image of a woman knitting and reading. The design was engraved on brass and then stamped in gold leaf onto the cloth. Cover designs depicting the subject of the book began to appear around 1840.

Elizabeth Nicholson. What I Know, or Hints on the Daily Duties of a Housekeeper. Philadelphia: Willis P. Hazard, 1856.

Knitting, netting, and crochet patterns appear as supplements in a number of mid-nineteenth century cookbooks. The popularity of crochet and knitting may have made the addition of patterns a sales advantage.

Florence Hartley. The Ladies' Hand Book of Fancy and Ornamental Work. Philadelphia: G.G. Evans, 1859.

Miser Purse. Crocheted silk with steel beads. Late 19th Century. Lent by the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Purse patterns of all shapes and sizes appear in many nineteenth-century needlework guides. These elaborate patterns incorporating beads, metallic threads, and silk required hours of work. Crochet and knit purses, symbols of both skill and leisure, fashionably accessorized the Victorian woman's wardrobe during social calls and shopping.